“Red light therapy is thought to promote collagen synthesis in the dermal layer of the skin and help to dial down inflammation in the skin,” says Bowe. “The light interacts with the skin to stimulate regeneration, healing, and repair of skin cells and supports our healthy collagen production and skin elasticity.” These benefits can be applied to scarring, fine lines, and acne, too, though the latter is commonly treated with blue light.
“In clinic, benefits range across skin rejuvenation (collagen production, fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation) right through to healing (using near-infrared light),” says Laurence Newman, Founder and CEO of CurrentBody. The dialing down of inflammation has more benefits than simply reducing redness: When used on certain areas of the body, phototherapy (aka light therapy) may help to reduce pain and soreness and even heal deeper tissues.
Frequency and duration of red light exposure depend on the “what” and “where” of your red light therapy device. “In-office red light devices are significantly more powerful than the devices you can get at home, and the at-home devices that are FDA-cleared are safer and more effective than the ones that are not FDA-cleared,” says Bowe. “When we are referring to at-home devices, I recommend patients stick with regular use (daily or 3-4x/week) for at least 6 weeks to give the device a chance to work.” Bowe goes on to note that skin-firming results can require up to three months of a regular red light routine.
While benefits like improved signs of photoaging and collagen boosting may take a few months, red light can calm inflammation in a single 10-minute session—the dermatologist-recommended span of exposure.
Red light therapy is generally considered a safe and effective method for all skin types, but there are a few common sense caveats. Step one: close your eyes.
“If you’re keeping your eyes open, the light can cause damage,” says Bowe. Next, your red light device, nor your skin, should never be hot, or even warm. “If the wavelengths of light are creating heat, that can trigger pigment producing cells in your skin to pump out more melanin, so you want to be especially cautious that it isn’t emitting heat if you are prone to hyperpigmentation.”
Murphy-Rose adds that it’s best to chat with your medical provider prior to using red light if you have any conditions that make you more photosensitive or take medications that increase your photosensitivity. And before you buy that pricey device, make sure it’s been properly vetted. “I would always recommend doing your research before investing in an LED device,” says Newman. “Not all LEDs are made the same, it’s very important to check that your device operates at the correct wavelengths to offer the results you are looking for and has been tested for safety.”
Still, the non-invasive treatment is largely side effect-free. Whether you opt to treat skin conditions in-spa or try light treatment at home, the positive effects of red light therapy are worth your time and dollar direction.
Interested in giving red light therapy a try? When choosing the best device for you, Ruth says “you should consider factors such as wavelength, power output, and treatment-area coverage of the device.”
“Opt for a device with wavelengths between 630 and 850 nanometers, as these wavelengths have shown optimal penetration for skin rejuvenation,” she says. And of course, a stamp of approval from the Food and Drug Administration never hurts. “I instruct patients to look for FDA-cleared devices to ensure safety and efficacy,” Ruth notes.
“With continued red LED treatments, clients can trust that their skin will look firmer and they will have a more even tone and texture,” says board-certified dermatologist Dr. Dennis Gross.So the devices work, but how? “LED works just like any other topical ingredient,” says Gross. “Our skin cells have receptors for LED, meaning light will enter the skin cell, connect to a unique LED receptor, and trigger the body to convert light energy into cellular energy. With red light devices, the red LED enters the fibroblast cell and stimulates collagen production—the key to healthy, younger-looking skin—and diminishes fine lines and wrinkles.” Gross adds that red LED also increases circulation and decreases redness, reducing inflammation and hyperpigmentation with consistent use.
“The main differences between infrared and red LED light are visibility, wavelength length, and depth of penetration,” Gross explains. “Infrared light is invisible and has a longer wavelength than red light. This allows it to penetrate deeper into the body and facilitate wound healing and cellular repair.” On the other hand, red light is visible, and—because it has a shorter wavelength—it targets the skin’s surface. “Red LED increases cellular energy to stimulate fibroblast growth factors to boost collagen synthesis,” Dr. Gross continues. “It also decreases matrix metalloproteinases activity, which is what breaks down collagen.” Generally speaking, red light therapy utilizes 630 to 700 nm wavelength of light, whereas near-infrared uses 800 to 1200 nm of light.
“Nearly every skin type can benefit from red light therapy,” Hartman says. “Even patients with skin conditions like eczema and rosacea can find relief from symptoms as red light can help reduce skin inflammation. Acne-prone skin benefits greatly from red light therapy too, as the light can reduce sebum production, which is one cause of acne, plus reduce the appearance of current inflammatory breakouts.” Those with mild to moderate fine lines and wrinkles will also find red light therapy beneficial, Hartman says, as red light promotes collagen and elastin production.
“Red light therapy can benefit a range of skin types but is especially helpful for those with aging or sensitive skin,” Bassiri-Therani adds. “People with sensitive skin often tolerate red light therapy well, as it’s non-invasive and generally soothing.”
Brooke Jeffy, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in Scottsdale, Arizona, cautions: “Those with more darkly pigmented skin may rarely experience worsening of hyperpigmentation and should stop treatments if occurring.”
“If you plan to use your red light therapy device consistently, it can definitely be worth the investment due to its effectiveness,” Engelman says. “With its multi-functional benefits, red light therapy allows you to target several skin concerns at once. This is a great investment for those who aren’t able to regularly visit a dermatologist for in-office treatments. While professional red light therapy sessions will offer stronger results more quickly, a high-quality at-home device can provide similar benefits over time, making them a more affordable and effective alternative. There are many high-quality devices available at various price points, so you can find one that fits your budget.” However, it pays to be discerning. “I highly recommend choosing an FDA-approved or clinically tested device to ensure safety and optimal results,” Engelman says. “Cutting corners on quality could lead to skin irritation or subpar outcomes, so it’s important to invest in a reputable and science-backed option!”
Hartman has a similar philosophy. “At-home red light therapy devices are worth the cost, especially if paired with in-office light therapy treatments and other procedures,” he says. “I typically recommend a joint approach of at-home and in-office options to patients, especially those with more moderate to severe concerns. Patients with moderate to severe concerns would likely find some improvement with at-home devices, but more improvement with treatments under the care of a dermatologist.”
According to Hartman, “The ideal range is between 630 nm and 680 nm. This range has shown the most benefit in research to stimulate the cellular process within the skin to help boost collagen and elastin production, ease fine lines and wrinkles, and reduce inflammation.”
Resource from VOGUE article:
https://www.vogue.com/article/red-light-therapy#whatarethebenefits
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